This product has received the 'Crappy Product' certificate.
Items that receive the 'Crappy Product' certificate are products that we carry for comparison purposes as they are often the version offered by other vendors or because it is the only version available. We would not be willing to use these parts on our own cars, and we do not recommend purchasing these parts.
WE ARE NOT ABLE TO ACCEPT RETURNS FOR THESE PARTS.
Product Condition Grades
Below is a general description of what the criteria is for our product condition grades. These are generalizations that are intended to give you an idea of the condition of the product at a quick glance. Because different parts degrade at different rates, there are variances in what the letters represent, please see the products description for details about the condition of any particular product.
A = Excellent / Above Average
B = Average / Some flaws / Good to Excellent Driver Quality
C = Obvious flaws / Poor to Average Driver Quality
D, E, F = Worse, Worser, Worsest
This system is the same as the other 67 conversion listed just without rotors & spindles for those who have good spindles and want to buy new rotors. You will save on shipping as well as the purchase price.
You will get all parts needed, as taken from a 1967 parts car to convert your 1967 Cougar or Mustang to power disc brakes. As pictured you will get the complete booster, unique 1967 pedal, hardware to mount booster, master cylinder to booster two piece spacer, master cylinder activation rod, four piston Kelsey Hayes calipers, proportioning valve, dust shields and all hardware to mount them. The dust shields will be solid as you would expect from a western donor car and all unique hardware is included. Plan on all parts needing rebuilt, all parts are guaranteed to be rebuild-able. We do not include used brake lines, hoses or a master cylinder as these are readily available at a low cost from many sources. Keep in mind it is very important to not mix and match certain parts from other years even if they "may" fit. For example if you use a 1969 pedal with this system there is no welded on stop to prevent the pedal from being pulled upward and the rod becoming disconnected from the booster. This is just one of many concerns involved when mixing and matching from different years and models.
Check out our video below for more info on how to convert a manual drum brake car to power disc: